Chang-rae Lee's Umbria Guide: Local Insights and Hidden Gems

Author Chang-rae Lee found his second home in Umbria after experiencing the renowned arts foundation and residency, Civitella Ranieri, nestled in the hills above Umbertide. He and his wife purchased a former farm in northern Umbria, drawn by the peaceful lifestyle and breathtaking scenery. They have been dedicating their summers to renovating the property and restoring its olive grove, a decision inspired by their stays at Civitella Ranieri.

While his literary works haven't directly chronicled the region, Lee completed two novels in his old stone house, including his latest, "A Tender Age," which explores the adolescent journey of a child of Korean immigrants. He has thoroughly explored the Upper Tiber River Valley, known locally as Alto Tevere, and shares his accumulated wisdom from these explorations.

Restaurants:

For those prioritizing culinary experiences, Lee suggests two establishments that highlight Umbria's abundant black summer truffles. Da Baffone, situated high in the hills near Gubbio, and the more accessible Osteria del Boccajolo in Umbertide both offer generous servings of truffle shavings over handmade tagliatelle, scrambled eggs, and steak, providing an exceptional taste of the region.

Hotels:

Lee has recommendations for friends who have stayed in various hotels. Nikis Resort, near Preggio, offers a blend of modern Italian and Scandinavian design. For a more luxurious experience, Vocabolo Moscatelli and Reschio hotel provide a "borgo-like" ambiance, reminiscent of staying in a noble's private estate. Reschio even boasts an equestrian center.

Caffeine:

Numerous bars and cafes offer the quintessential Italian espresso experience. Lee favors Caffe Centrale in Umbertide's main piazza, especially on market days (Wednesdays and Saturdays). These markets are vibrant hubs for fresh produce, seafood, meats, cheeses, and even clothing vendors.

Food Truck:

During market days, be on the lookout for the Blasi family's porchetta truck. Lee highly recommends their fennel-seasoned pork roast, particularly when ordered in a panino misto, which includes a mix of meats and crispy rind. He considers it an excellent value.

Art:

Just across the border in Tuscany, the towns of Monterchi and Sansepolcro house significant works by Renaissance master Piero della Francesca. Lee finds his "Madonna del Parto" in Monterchi deeply moving. Monterchi also features a unique Museum of Scales and weights, adding another layer of interest to this small town.